Craig Lee/The Chronicle 2003
Zuni Cafe and its chef, Judy Rodgers, have had a huge impact on Bay Area dining.
In the world of food, 1979 was a watershed year for San Francisco: Three restaurants that helped define the way we eat opened — Greens, Zuni Cafe and Hayes Street Grill.
Each brought something unique to the dining scene.
Greens, owned by the Zen Center, literally redefined what we thought of vegetarian food; first under Deborah Madison and now under Annie Somerville. Not only did it offer a great wine list, but the chefs prepared food that appealed to meat eaters. In addition, through the various cookbooks written by Madison and Somerville, the message was passed on to home cooks and other chefs.
Hayes Street Grill was one of the first restaurants to offer pristine, simply prepared seafood, which is accompanied by the diner’s choice of several sauces. Years later, Craft in New York garnered national attention for doing a similar thing with its meat and fish dishes. But Hayes Street Grill pioneered this straightforward style of eating.
Zuni Cafe embodies the casual San Francisco style of dining. Like the city itself, it is a restaurant about passion, which grew from the vision of its now deceased owner Billy West. He opened the cafe on a shoestring. The food had a vaguely Mexican and Southwestern bent during its first eight years, and people loved it. When Judy Rodgers took over as chef in 1987 she built on its eclectic nature, and it became a true San Francisco icon.
Both Zuni and Hayes Street Grill are celebrating this month: Judy Rodgers is offering a special menu of Zuni classics, along with wines from 1979, on Sunday Feb. 15 and Tuesday Feb. 17.
At Hayes Street Grill, Patricia Unterman is taking diners through three decades with three dinners for $30. The menus from the 1980s will be featured on February 12; the ’90s on March 4; and a big anniversary celebration on March 17.
Whether you join in the celebration or not, you should rediscover each of these places if they’ve fallen off your radar. Each continues to make significant contributions to the Bay Area dining scene.
Posted By: Michael Bauer (Email) | February 11 2009 at 05:18 AM
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