Eric Luse/The Chronicle
That’s an interesting and somewhat complicated question and goes to the core of an implied trust between the diner and the chef.
I remember talking to Judy Rodgers of Zuni Cafe about this subject more than a decade ago and her philosophy has stuck in my memory. She pointed out that a restaurant is one of the few businesses where the owner knows that when someone walks through the door, he or she will spend money. If you don’t like a sweater, for example, you don’t have to buy it. If you get home and don’t like it you can return it. Generally when you order a dish in a restaurant, you pay for it. Should you have to eat a dish you don’t really like?
She says no. If someone doesn’t like what they order, she will replace it; she wants diners to be happy with their meal. Most chefs feel the same way, and most patrons would never dream of sending back a dish simply because they don’t like the addition of red pepper in the sauce. That is where the trust comes in: a chef trusts that a diner knows his style of cooking and a diner trusts that the chef will deliver.
Sitting down and ordering is almost like a mutual understanding between the two parties. I think diners should be judicious in sending back food. It is fair to complain when the food is improperly cooked, or when the dish isn’t as described, or has an ingredient, not mentioned, that the diner is allergic to or doesn’t like.
Whatever the reason, a dish shouldn’t be sent back if half of it has been eaten. In most cases, instead of simply taking the dish off the check, the waiter will likely try to steer the diner to another dish on the menu.
February 12 2009 at 05:11 AM
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